I love using Chalk Paint to paint furniture, and just about anything. So today I’m sharing the 5 top ways to seal Chalk Paint (plus pros and cons of each)!
I’ve had a long love affair with Chalk Paint.
I’ve been painting and refinishing furniture (and just stuff) for so many years, I can not even count.
So when I first heard about this Chalk Paint stuff, I had to try it out. That was at least 8 or so years ago.
I mean, how fun is it to try something new when you’ve been using the same ole, same ole for years?
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So much fun.
Well, the Chalk Paint led into so many brands and types, which then led into Milk Paint and so on and so on. But today it’s all about Chalk Paint.
However, these tips for how to seal Chalk Paint can also go along with sealing Milk Paint, too.
So keep that in mind if you are a Milk Paint lover. I never really got on board with that much.
I do have a few pieces on my blog that are milk painted but I didn’t fall in love with it.
Although, I do still plan to do a few more pieces with it! (I have more samples to use over here and want to try a few things)
Of course I started out using wax to seal Chalk Paint because that is how I was told to do it.
I quickly, very quickly, decided to try poly instead. I had good luck with it (and at the time, wasn’t even sure if it was supposed to work or not because I hadn’t really seen anyone using it as a sealer for CP)
Wax and I have not always had a love affair. ;)
It’s a love/hate relationship, for sure. And for many reasons.
As I go through the top 5 ways to seal Chalk Paint today, I’m also going to give the pros and cons of each, that I’ve found along the way, plus a few product options.
You’ll find there is no “perfect” sealer. They all have pros and cons.
It just depends on the look you are after, the durability you are after and the amount of work you’d like to put into it.
I hope this post will be helpful to you in your future makeover adventures!
I finished 5 boards with Chalk Paint and the varying sealers so you can see (somewhat anyway, it’s hard in photos) what the different finishes look like. (AND how the different finishes change the look of the paint)
I really should be calling this 6 but one is not an actual sealer that I’m sharing today but it can be used as such…if you accept the cons that go along with it.
5 Ways To Seal Chalk Paint
Isn’t it amazing how each top coat gives the paint a completely different look?
That is something else to keep in mind when deciding on a top coat for your project.
By the way, I used Duck Egg Blue (Annie Sloan Chalk Paint) on the sample boards.
1 – Wax
Well, you know we had to start there, right?
PROS-
- gives a beautiful, unmatched sheen and lustre
- feels so smooth
- paint can be added for a variety of color options
- resists water
- fairly durable wear
- usually won’t yellow over time
CONS-
- takes a bit of “elbow grease” to apply and buff
- more time consuming to apply
- needs touch ups and repeat applications over time
- not impervious to heat
- can not be repainted over, except with more Chalk Paint
Some waxes to try:
- Dixie Belle Wax
- Americana Decor Creme Wax
- FolkArt Home Decor Wax
- Annie Sloan Wax
- Miss Mustard Seed’s Wax
- Briwax
2 – Polyacrylic
I’m going to be talking about water based poly, not oil based. Oil based is similar but it has more of a tendency to yellow over time so I don’t use it often.
You can use polyacrylic sprays or liquids.
PROS-
- multiple finish options, shiny to matte and even flat
- very durable
- you can spray, brush or roll the product
- quicker application time
- paint color can be added to create an array of finished looks
- can be painted over
CONS-
- even though it’s water based, it can yellow over time changing the color of your paint
- stains can sometimes appear in the underlying Chalk Paint
- might need more than one coat
- brush strokes are possible, if using a brush
Some polys to try:
3 – Glaze
Glaze is a fun finish if you want to change the color of your project, subtlety.
PROS-
- a variety of colors are available
- similar to apply as poly but a brush or rag can be used
- adds dimension and interest
- can be painted over
CONS-
- doesn’t give as durable a finish
- glazes are usually colored, (white, brown, black, etc) so the color of the glaze will affect the final finish color
Some glazes to try:
4 – Oils
Oils work well with Milk Paint but they can also be used with Chalk Paint. I don’t really use oils to seal Chalk Paint but it is a popular choice.
It works well on reviving old wood too!
PROS-
- similar sheen as wax
- not as durable as wax or poly
- less toxic to use
- easy application
- can add extra coats for more sheen, durability
CONS-
- painting over it can be a problem
- doesn’t have the same smooth, finished “feel” as wax and poly
- the color of the oil can impart color onto your painted piece
- oil can “age” over time and yellow
Some oils to try:
5 – Rustoleum Matte Finish
I gave this one it’s own category because I find it to be a bit different from the other polys I’ve used.
To me, it’s more of a blend, not fully poly-like.
PROS-
- easy application
- durable
- nice sheen, more like wax
- quick dry time
CONS-
- although durable, it doesn’t seem quite as durable as regular poly
- nice matte finish
- additional coats may be needed
- the jury is still out on whether this yellows over time
Get it here >>> Rustoleum Matte Finish
And last, but not least, number 6 which doesn’t really count as it’s not a “sealer”…but I’m including it anyway. ;)
6 – Buffing
Say what? Just buffed?
Yes, buffing. Not adding a sealer at all. Did you know that Chalk Paint buffs up really nicely without any top coat??
It creates a lovely, buttery soft sheen when buffed.
PROS-
- easy to do
- buffs to a soft sheen
- more suited for outside items, weathered, etc.
- keeps the color of the paint more “pure”
CONS-
- not suitable for daily use
- not durable like wax or poly
So there they are. The 5 top ways to seal Chalk Paint (or Milk Paint too).
I hope that you find this information helpful!
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I’m working on getting back into my “back to basics” series I started last year. So be on the lookout for a few more in this series in the coming weeks/months.
I’ll be adding these links to each post like this below so you’ll be able to find them easier.
- More posts in this “back to basics” series:
- How To Paint Light Fixtures Without Removing Them
- How To Create Faux Verdigris (and video)
- How To Create Faux Patina (and video)
- 26 Different Types of Chalk Style Paint
- How To Transfer Images
- How To Import Images Into Silhouette
- 5 Top Ways To Seal Chalk Paint
- How To Restain Wood Without Stripping
- How To Use Gel Stain
I’ll be adding to these links as I add posts in this series.
I have at least 3 more planned as of now. So stay tuned!
Hope you have a wonderful weekend and happy painting! (and sealing! ;) )
xoxo
Related Posts:
Pros and Cons of Chalk Paint For Furniture (and some…
26 Types of Chalk Style Paint for Furniture (ALL the…
My Chalk Painted Cabinets (4 years later-how did they do!?)
Painted Cabinets with General Finishes Milk Paint…
How To Modernize Old Furniture With Chalk Paint
Antoinette Chalk Paint with Decoupage
Coastal End Table Makeover (GF Chalk Style Paint)
Simple Table Update With Chalk Paint
Perfect post timing! I’d been using wax mostly because I love the finished look… but I guess I’m getting lazy (and impatient..haha) so I’ve been alternating between Dixie Belle’s satin clear coat and Rustoleum’s matte clear coat. So good to see the pro’s and con’s. Thank you Nancy!
Thank you for sharing this! I was debating which sealer to use on my current project and here is the perfect answer!
Yay! So happy you will find this helpful for your project, Diana!! :) Good luck and have fun! xo
Aw, yay!! So happy to hear this Mary! :) I’m telling you, wax is truly a beautiful and unmatched finish. BUT…it is time consuming and not quite as durable overall for me. So nice that we have so many options out there these days, though, right??!! xo
How do you get the chalk paint so smooth? Is it because you water down the second coat or lots of sanding?
Hey Marlene! I don’t water it down for basic painting. (only if I’m doing a specialty finish, etc) Now, that’s not to say that I won’t add a dab of water if the paint becomes too thick over time but I don’t think that is what you are saying. Several things help with brush strokes and that’s have a good applicator…brush. I love Purdy. And yes, you can lightly sand in between coats and just before your finish coat as well. I didn’t on these because I just wanted to show give the gist of the finishes. And if you are careful in how you paint, use a good brush or roller, the light sanding you might do before finish should be just that, a light easy sanding. :) Hope that helps!! xo
great post, thanks!
Hey Julia! So glad you like it! Hope it helps! :) xo
Thank you for this post! I have not yet ventured into the world of chalk paint but would like to try a small project. I have used Rustoleum antiquing glaze in Java over latex paint and love the results. Do you typically apply poly over glazes? I know the can says you can for added protection. I did when I painted and glazed bead-board wallpaper because it was on the end of a lower kitchen cabinet where it would get more abuse, but when I painted and glazed the wood trim around my brick fireplace which gets little to no wear, I did not.
Hey Vicki! You are very welcome!! I hope it helps everyone who may be wondering about some of the different finishes out there. As far as how I apply it, I love that you can really do so many things. You can apply poly over the glaze to set/seal it. Or you can apply poly first and then apply the glaze for a bit more control and distribution of the glaze. You can even tint regular seal coat and use it as a glaze. I think anytime you have somewhere that gets more abuse or wear, it’s also good to add an extra layer of protection. Good choice! :) xo
You weren’t sure if Rustoleum Matte Clear yellows over time, well let me tell you, YES, it does. Like you, I wasn’t fond of all the work involved with wax so I switched to the Rustoleum. I figured, hey it says “Chalked” “Protective Top Coat” on the can so it must be good. I primarily use ASCP Pure White and found out the hard way that over time, it does yellow. Every time I walk past a bench I did, it looks like the yellow is spreading. Now I have to redo the piece. I hate that!
I am also not thrilled with it’s performance as a top coat on a table I did. I applied at least 6 thin coats, and the table still scratches easily. My friend uses General Finishes Flat Out Flat. I’m going to give it a try, but I’m nervous about it.
Ahhh bummer, I was afraid of that. It’s tough to find a truly non yellowing poly sealer. I’ve found some that yellow LESS but none that don’t truly yellow even if it’s just a bit. I did notice that it didn’t seem quite as durable so put that in my “cons” but I haven’t fully tested that out either. Just initial observations to it since I’ve only recently started using that one. I haven’t used the Flat Out Flat on anything that gets a lot of wear but I do love that one on the things I have used it on. It’s perfect for a flat, not sealed “look” finish. My favorite is still the Satin HP Top Coat though, overall. I’ve had the best luck with that one all around. :) xo
So glad I read this, especially the above post about Rust-Oleum. I was considering trying it. I love the feel and look of wax above all. It feels like butter. I always fine sand with 400 grit before applying. Have you ever tried Polyvine Wax Finish Varnish? Very similar to wax finish. I’ve been using this on table tops and anything that will get a little more use. I used it on our kitchen table and chairs a few years ago and they still look great. Have not had an issue with yellowing. I learn so much from your posts!
Hi Susan! Yes, I’ve enjoyed the Rustoleum sealer so far but one of my readers did say it does yellow somewhat. I painted something white with it recently so I’m keeping an eye on that and will report back! I do love the feel of it though. However, I’m with you, nothing really compares to the feel and look of wax.
And no I have not tried that but I’m going to look it up right now! It sounds like something I’d like. Thanks for the tip on that!! And I learned something from YOU (and a few other readers) today! ;) Thank you! xo
Polyvine is truly the answer. Looks so much like wax but you just paint it on. It is as solid as a rock. I live in Australia and you can’t buy it here. I love it so much that I import it from England which is obviously more pricey than just going to the shop but it is so worth it. Never yellows either. I use the satin finish which is a good wax look alike.
Oh this is so good to hear! I’m excited to try it and will update this post once I do! I actually just received it yesterday and can’t wait to use it! Love finding new (to me) products to try! :) xo
Hello Nancy,
This morning, I received your blog about your entire kitchen renovation. It looks lovely, and being DIY ers, I can appreciate your hard work and effort.
A question about your new cabinets…..Were they RTA cabinets? If yes, did you assemble them yourself? Was it really hard and what brand did you get? I have already refinished my 40 year old “plank look” cabinets twice. The finish still looks quite good, but am getting ready for a change. Your blog this morning was of great interest to me.
Thanks, Sharlee
Hi Sharlee! Thank you! Yes, they were RTA cabinets but we decided to get the already assembled and I am SO glad we did. It was just one less thing, in an already big job, to do. I don’t think they are that bad to assemble but you need some space to do it …and of course, the extra time involved. This is the brand we used…Forevermark. We saved a TON doing it this way and I am telling you, they look just as good as if we’d gone through a “kitchen” store to have them done. (and they’d have been at least triple the price, probably more)
And you sound like me, we added wood trim to our flat front cabinets when we moved in and I painted them. Then I painted them a couple more times over the years….which led to finally needing to go ahead and replaced them. Ours were also 40ish years old. Good luck with yours!! xo